SAN FRANCISCO’S BEST NEW THAI RESTAURANT IS ENERGIZING A SLEEPY CORNER OF THE CITY

To understand what Khao Tiew does best, look no further than the engrossing beef fried rice ($25). Each grain radiates with rendered short rib tallow, further enriched with soy-cured egg yolk and a stack of medium-rare beef. The dish, which blends Thai and Japanese cooking, was easily one of the best I’ve had this year. It also embodies the fresh